Melkam Yelidet Beaal (Happy Christmas)

GENNA

Christmas in Ethiopia, called Lidet or Genna, is not the primary religious and secular festival that it has become in Western countries. Falling on January 7th, it is celebrated seriously by a church service that goes on throughout the night in ancient churches carved from solid volcanic rock and also in modern churches that are designed in three concentric circles. Men and boys sit separately from girls and women. The choir sings from the outside circle.

The day before Genna, people fast all day. On Christmas Eve the city is crowded with pilgrims from all parts of the country. They remain outdoors all night, praying and chanting. The next morning at dawn, everyone dresses in white. Most Ethiopians wear a traditional shamma, a thin, white cotton wrap with brightly colored stripes across the ends. The shamma is worn somewhat like a toga. Urban Ethiopians might put on white Western garb. A colorful procession makes its way to a nearby hilltop where a service is held. Three young men march at the head of the crowd, lashing whips from left to right to keep the people in line. People receive candles as they enter the church. After lighting the candles everyone walks around the church three times, then stands throughout the mass, which may last up to three hours.

After the service is over the rest of the day is spent dancing, playing sport and feasting. Traditionally, young men played a game somewhat like hockey, called genna, played with a curved stick and a round wooden ball, and so Christmas has also come to be known by that name. Food served at Christmas usually includes injera, a sourdough pancake like bread. Injera serves as both plate and fork. Doro wat, a spicy chicken stew might be the main meal. A piece of the injera is used to scoop up the wat. Baskets decorated beautifully are used to serve the wat.

Genna and Timkat are not occasions for giving gifts in Ethiopia. If a child receives any gift at all, it is usually a small gift of clothing. Religious observances, feasting, and games are the focus of the season.

TIMKET

Timket, the feast of Epiphany is the greatest festival of the year, falling on January 19th, just two weeks after the Ethiopian Christmas. It is actually a three-day affair beginning on the eve of Timket with dramatic and colourful processions. The children walk to church services in a procession, wearing the crowns and robes of the church youth groups they belong to. The grown-ups wear the shamma. The priests will now wear their red and white robes and carry embroidered fringed umbrellas.

The following morning, the great day itself, Christ's baptism in the Jordan River by John the Baptist is commemorated. Ethiopian men play another sport called yeferas guks. They ride on horseback and throw ceremonial lances at each other. Since October and the end of the rains, the country has been drying up steadily. The sun blazes down from a clear blue sky and the festival of Timket always takes place in glorious weather.

Melkam Yelidet Beaal (Happy Christmas)

With Love,
Nancy